At 7.30 we went off for a pre-breakfast walk to the top of Symonds Yat Rock. It was a lovely morning and we had the place to ourselves. It’s a steep climb up through the woods, where we bumped into a regular from the White Lion in Ross-on-Wye. There is a walled viewing area at the summit with a perfect view of the rocks where peregrine falcons nest. You can also see the vast sweep of the river as it doubles back on itself – something you are not aware of when canoeing.
Dave and I were ready for breakfast by the time we returned, but once again we were frustrated; breakfast at the Saracen’s Head was served to residents only, and the landlord refused to be persuaded otherwise – even though there were plenty of empty tables.
Back at the campsite office we asked where we might eat. It was as if we were the first explorers happening upon a community isolated from the rest of civilization. “Nowhere round here.” But then the lad helpfully made a phone call to the Royal Lodge further up the road and pulled some strings. The hotel served a great veggie breakfast and even let us bring Ella inside.
Our misgivings about the campsite, the less than picturesque buildings and their unnecessary signage, and the difficulty of actually obtaining meals, were made up for by the helpful and willing young staff everywhere in Symonds Yat East.
We broke camp and got our canoe and equipment back down the steps and into the water. We could hear the rapids close by and, as this was my first time, I was a little apprehensive. What were Grade 2 rapids going to be like? What if we capsized and Ella was swept downstream? We knew the main thing was to not approach them sideways (!) and to both keep paddling through.

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